Ecotourism in Raja Ampat
With limited options for travel, going to Papua was perhaps a touch on the risky side during COVID-19 and especially in Indonesia. But, the connection to Misool seemed straight forward : a direct 3 hours and 55min flight on Garuda Indonesia from Jakarta to Sorong and then a four hour boat ride out to Batbitim island. It sounds long and arduous but honestly I wish more of the beautiful corners of Indonesia were as easy to navigate. National parks like Leuser and Way Kambas still remain cumbersome journeys but for the most intrepid of visitors. Which is a shame in one of the world’s most biodiverse nations — so much more could be done to drive nature based tourism here but it requires infrastructure and policy backing. But that’s a different story for a different time.
Misool Resort is this idilic location far in the South of the world famous Raja Ampat archipelago. Recently voted the #1 dive destination in the world by by Dive Magazine and Misool was prominently featured in the accolades. The diving is breathtaking and recommended for even the most novice of under water adventurers. I’ve often heard of non-divers lamenting the journey to far off dive destinations, but this spot is equally enjoyable for snorkelers!
Misool Resort is literally the blood, sweat and tears of Andrew and Marit Miners, the founders of this bit of dive resort paradise. The couple happened on Batbitim in 2005 and spent the following three years with the support of friends to put together a few villas to bring in visitors craving a unique dive experience coupled with marine conservation. Fifteen years later in 2020, you have this amazing resort with 20 villas, fantastic staff and management and a dive experience not to be forgotten.
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In 2005 Batbitim Island was an abandoned shark finning hub as were some of the surrounding islands. Illegal fishing groups were paying the clans that have rights over the waters and islands in this area a pittance — $30 per month for unfettered access to the seas AND the islands; so naturally what transpired was rampant illegal fishing, shark finning that drove some shark species to near extinction and not to forget unregulated felling of the forests on these islands. Thankfully, the couples new license over the area served to drive away the camps of illegal activity. In 2005 the team remarked on the noticeable absence of any sharks in the surrounding waters. Today, the sharks have returned and are a testament to the conservation work put in by the Misool team.
Resort operations have grown to support some of the best marine conservation efforts in the world. Misool’s earnings now support a marine ranger program that is central to the monitoring of its waters and islands and the protection of two Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) that absolutely restrict any form of fishing. There are arrangements in place for preserving local fishing traditions that give due respect to the many clans that live in the Raja Ampat archipelago and yet do not harm the marine ecosystem. In total Misool’s rights extend over approximately 1,225km of waters or approximately twice the size of Singapore.
In addition to the ranger patrols, Misool also supports several other landmark initiatives such as Bank Sampah, for the collection and recycling of plastic, and the Misol Manta Project. Mantas were abundant during our visit and it’s hard to imagine how humans can blindly slaughter such peaceful and intelligent life. There were several moments where we were just a meter away from these giant winged aliens, with us gazing into their eyes and the mantas looking back with these giant cow eyes. In that moment there is such a profound connection with nature and life that you’re weighed down with a feeling of wanting to do everything you can to preserve what little is left on this planet. David Attenborough couldn’t be more right in his latest film, A Life on our Planet, we don’t have the luxury of time anymore and action is required now. We are losing species to extinction at a rate 1000 times more than the historical natural rate of loss and this is due to human-caused habitat destruction and climate change.
Misool’s work and the required funding for protecting the MPAs as well as the Bank Sampah project has had the support of major global conservation organizations such as The Nature Conservancy, Conservation International and WWF. Many of its initiatives are supported under the umbrella of the Coral Triangle Initiative which has evolved into the Blue Abadi Fund. The fund has been structured with international support to give financial and technical assistance to conserving critical projects in the Birds Head Seascape. Given that the city of Sorong was recently voted one of the dirtiest in Indonesia, the Bank Sampah project could not have come sooner. Not only is it serving a critical function in this fledgeling city, but also empowering women and families, educating young students and bringing in income at many levels of the community.
That two foreigners have devoted their life’s work in one of the most remote parts of Indonesia is in itself worthy of applause, but a visit to Misool leaves you even more impressed with the world class conservation efforts put in place. Don’t get me wrong, the resort is absolutely lovely, exceedingly comfortable and serves up delicious food. Andy and Marit and other key partners such as the environmental filmmaker and philanthropist, Shawn Heinrichs, continue to dedicate their life to Misool and showcase what can be done. Sometimes we’re jaded by our experiences in the cities and the work we do and consequently not wanting to take that difficult but needed first step to making a difference. So that we end up wondering around with blinders on, like a horse in Central Park plodding along a well worn path. You question the ability to get anything done so far away from home base. I invite you to have a close look at Misool. It’s a case study in perseverance, a stubbornness to not give in and an unrelenting passion to conserve one of the world’s best marine ecosystems in Raja Ampat.
The writer is a member of The Nature Conservancy’s Leadership Council in Indonesia
